“Woe to the land of whirring wings along the rivers of Cush, which sends envoys by sea in papyrus boats over the water. Go, swift messengers to a people tall and smooth-skinned, to a people feared far and wide, an aggressive nation of strange speech, whose land is divided by rivers.” Isaiah 18:1-2
It is believed that the Kingdom of Kush / Cush is ancient Sudan at the confluences of the Blue Nile, White Nile, and River Atbara and Isaiah 18:1-2 is a prophecy of that land. Kush was the eldest son of Ham who was a son of Noah. Many hold the perception that this verse refers to South Sudan’s secession from Sudan in 2011 and God’s blessing on the land. After two and a half months in South Sudan, I can attest to the fact that South Sudan is “an aggressive nation of strange speech, whose land is divided by rivers.”
After a week of briefings at the Medair headquarters in Switzerland, I arrived in Juba, South Sudan on Sunday, 18 June. I had been warned about the chaos of Juba International Airport prior to departure but was not fully prepared for it. The airport is housed in a series of white tents, stained with dirty mud, and open to the elements. The floor consists of broken pieces of plywood balancing precariously on cinder blocks. There are regular holes in the floor where unsuspecting travellers’ feet have fallen through into the sludge below. There is not enough room for the multitude of people and the locals vying for the opportunity to carry a bag for a fee. The experience was surreal and an adequate introduction into the mess that is South Sudan.
After decades of war, South Sudan succeeded in gaining independence from Sudan in 2011. It was a joyous and hopeful event marking what many believed to be a new chapter in the lives of the people of this broken country. President Salva Kirr and vice-president Reik Machar vowed to usher in a period of peace and prosperity focusing on unity and democracy. However, after years of fighting, the government positions were filled primarily with soldiers with little or no experience in nation building. It did not take long for the cracks to appear and corruption to take root. In mid-2013, Machar indicated his intention to challenge Salva Kirr in the next presidential election. Threatened by this prospect, Salva Kirr fired Machar and other members of his cabinet. In December 2013, a civil war flared up enveloping the country, killing thousands, and displacing thousands more. Over three and a half years later, the war continues and those suffering the most are the women and children scattered across a beautiful, fertile, and oil-rich land.
Despite the harsh reality of life in South Sudan, I have loved my time here so far. It is difficult, it is tiring, it is frustrating, but it has become my home and I am pleased to be here. My first rotation was ten weeks. I am currently in Nairobi, Kenya on rest and relaxation leave which is a requirement of Medair and most other NGOs. It is a welcomed break.
I was fortunate to have an extended handover period with the previous Communications Officer Diana. It was an invaluable few weeks of learning about Medair, South Sudan, and the requirements of my role. My tasks are varied and involve updating social media, compiling press releases, hosting media guests, drafting private funding proposals, managing photographs and videos, writing stories, editing the monthly prayer report, and overseeing branding and visibility among other things. I am enjoying the work and the people I interact with. The process of getting my work approved has been an adjustment; on most occasions, at least six people review and edit my story or proposal before it is used.
I had the opportunity to have four field trips in my first rotation; two to Renk in the north of the country and two to Aweil in the north-west. Both were excellent chances to see the work being done on the ground, meet the teams in these locations, and witness the life-saving work taking place.
My first field trip was to Renk to which I travelled with Diana and two videographers who were collecting material for Medair. My second trip to Renk was with a professional photographer. Renk county is on the border with Sudan and Medair is a provider of primary health care including a 24-hour reproductive clinic and 24-hour stabilisation centre for children with malnutrition experiencing complications, nutrition treatment, and water, sanitation, and hygiene (WASH) services. The team is dedicated and diligent, working exceptionally hard under difficult circumstances. Often mothers giving birth have complications and as there are no facilities for caesarean sections in Renk, the team arranges for the mother to be referred to a hospital in Sudan. A Medair vehicle transports the patient to the border where she is then transferred to a donkey cart to traverse the no-man’s-land between the borders, and finally taken by taxi to the hospital. On my most recent trip to Renk, two babies and one mother died. It is a desperate situation but for every life lost, several are saved by the Medair team.
I visited Aweil with the same videographers and again with a journalist and photographer representing one of our donors. Aweil is an exceptionally fertile region suffering from a severe food crisis. Medair initially intervened in Aweil as an emergency response to the nutrition catastrophe but the immensity of the problems resulted in the establishment of a static project. Currently Medair is operating eight nutrition sites and will begin supporting local primary health care units next month. Over 5,500 people are being assisted by Medair in Aweil each month. Aweil should not be enduring a food disaster; the land is intensely green and crops should grow with little assistance. Amartya Sen, a Harvard economist, argued that there has never been a serious famine in a country, even an impoverished one, with a democratic government and a free press. The press acts as a warning system and the pressures of democracy dissuade rulers from famine producing policies. Although South Sudan is no longer considered to be in a state of famine, 6 million people are in need of urgent food assistance. In Northern Bahr el Ghazal where Aweil is located, almost 500,000 people are classified as living in a state of a nutrition emergency. The Medair team in Aweil is providing assistance to children under the age of five and pregnant and lactating women.
I spend the majority of my time in the capital city, Juba. Juba is a broken metropolis characterised by potholed roads, few services, tight security, and a fearful population. The Medair compound consists of our residence and offices and is under 24-hour guard. There are usually approximately 24 people living and working in the base and there are frequent team members travelling through Juba to and from leave. Two dozen national staff also work on the compound. Due to the security risks, Medair imposes a 7pm curfew on all staff staying on base. We cannot be out after 7pm or before 6:30am. We are not allowed to walk anywhere and are therefore reliant on Medair drivers. Electricity is provided by a generator which is switched off for three hour-long intervals each day. We are fortunate to have air conditioners in our rooms and offices which makes the intense heat tolerable. We have running water but it is exceptionally salty and only cold. I am accustomed to cold, salty showers. Lunch and dinner is provided each day except Sunday. The food primarily consists of rice, beans, and ugali. As a team, we make the most of our restricted life. We play games, watch movies, have “room parties”, and go out to eat on Sundays. Some play ultimate frisbee with other NGOs on Saturday mornings. Life is simple in Juba. Besides the security threats surrounding us, we work hard, make the most of our times off-base, and build relationships with each other. We have team devotions every week-day morning and often have prayer and worship evenings. Without our faith, life in South Sudan would be that much more difficult.
I feel deeply privileged to be working with Medair. Our work is truly saving lives. I also feel a huge responsibility to adequately tell the story of South Sudan, her people, the struggles, the hope, and the team members of Medair sacrificing so much to do this vital work.
I am excited for my second rotation which begins on Monday with a visit from a French documentary maker whom I will host for three weeks. I will again have the opportunity to visit several field locations. I value the relationships I have established so far and am expectant for what they promise to develop into. My time of rest in Kenya has been much needed and valuable. I plan to go back to South Africa in November after my second rotation.
Thank you for your prayers and support. I continue to feel God’s hand of guidance, protection, and providence over me and my work.