First Rotation

“Woe to the land of whirring wings along the rivers of Cush, which sends envoys by sea in papyrus boats over the water. Go, swift messengers to a people tall and smooth-skinned, to a people feared far and wide, an aggressive nation of strange speech, whose land is divided by rivers.” Isaiah 18:1-2

It is believed that the Kingdom of Kush / Cush is ancient Sudan at the confluences of the Blue Nile, White Nile, and River Atbara and Isaiah 18:1-2 is a prophecy of that land. Kush was the eldest son of Ham who was a son of Noah. Many hold the perception that this verse refers to South Sudan’s secession from Sudan in 2011 and God’s blessing on the land. After two and a half months in South Sudan, I can attest to the fact that South Sudan is “an aggressive nation of strange speech, whose land is divided by rivers.”

After a week of briefings at the Medair headquarters in Switzerland, I arrived in Juba, South Sudan on Sunday, 18 June. I had been warned about the chaos of Juba International Airport prior to departure but was not fully prepared for it. The airport is housed in a series of white tents, stained with dirty mud, and open to the elements. The floor consists of broken pieces of plywood balancing precariously on cinder blocks. There are regular holes in the floor where unsuspecting travellers’ feet have fallen through into the sludge below. There is not enough room for the multitude of people and the locals vying for the opportunity to carry a bag for a fee. The experience was surreal and an adequate introduction into the mess that is South Sudan.

After decades of war, South Sudan succeeded in gaining independence from Sudan in 2011. It was a joyous and hopeful event marking what many believed to be a new chapter in the lives of the people of this broken country. President Salva Kirr and vice-president Reik Machar vowed to usher in a period of peace and prosperity focusing on unity and democracy. However, after years of fighting, the government positions were filled primarily with soldiers with little or no experience in nation building. It did not take long for the cracks to appear and corruption to take root. In mid-2013, Machar indicated his intention to challenge Salva Kirr in the next presidential election. Threatened by this prospect, Salva Kirr fired Machar and other members of his cabinet. In December 2013, a civil war flared up enveloping the country, killing thousands, and displacing thousands more. Over three and a half years later, the war continues and those suffering the most are the women and children scattered across a beautiful, fertile, and oil-rich land.

Despite the harsh reality of life in South Sudan, I have loved my time here so far. It is difficult, it is tiring, it is frustrating, but it has become my home and I am pleased to be here. My first rotation was ten weeks. I am currently in Nairobi, Kenya on rest and relaxation leave which is a requirement of Medair and most other NGOs. It is a welcomed break.

I was fortunate to have an extended handover period with the previous Communications Officer Diana. It was an invaluable few weeks of learning about Medair, South Sudan, and the requirements of my role. My tasks are varied and involve updating social media, compiling press releases, hosting media guests, drafting private funding proposals, managing photographs and videos, writing stories, editing the monthly prayer report, and overseeing branding and visibility among other things. I am enjoying the work and the people I interact with. The process of getting my work approved has been an adjustment; on most occasions, at least six people review and edit my story or proposal before it is used.

I had the opportunity to have four field trips in my first rotation; two to Renk in the north of the country and two to Aweil in the north-west. Both were excellent chances to see the work being done on the ground, meet the teams in these locations, and witness the life-saving work taking place.

My first field trip was to Renk to which I travelled with Diana and two videographers who were collecting material for Medair. My second trip to Renk was with a professional photographer. Renk county is on the border with Sudan and Medair is a provider of primary health care including a 24-hour reproductive clinic and 24-hour stabilisation centre for children with malnutrition experiencing complications, nutrition treatment, and water, sanitation, and hygiene (WASH) services. The team is dedicated and diligent, working exceptionally hard under difficult circumstances. Often mothers giving birth have complications and as there are no facilities for caesarean sections in Renk, the team arranges for the mother to be referred to a hospital in Sudan. A Medair vehicle transports the patient to the border where she is then transferred to a donkey cart to traverse the no-man’s-land between the borders, and finally taken by taxi to the hospital. On my most recent trip to Renk, two babies and one mother died. It is a desperate situation but for every life lost, several are saved by the Medair team.

I visited Aweil with the same videographers and again with a journalist and photographer representing one of our donors. Aweil is an exceptionally fertile region suffering from a severe food crisis. Medair initially intervened in Aweil as an emergency response to the nutrition catastrophe but the immensity of the problems resulted in the establishment of a static project. Currently Medair is operating eight nutrition sites and will begin supporting local primary health care units next month. Over 5,500 people are being assisted by Medair in Aweil each month. Aweil should not be enduring a food disaster; the land is intensely green and crops should grow with little assistance. Amartya Sen, a Harvard economist, argued that there has never been a serious famine in a country, even an impoverished one, with a democratic government and a free press. The press acts as a warning system and the pressures of democracy dissuade rulers from famine producing policies. Although South Sudan is no longer considered to be in a state of famine, 6 million people are in need of urgent food assistance. In Northern Bahr el Ghazal where Aweil is located, almost 500,000 people are classified as living in a state of a nutrition emergency. The Medair team in Aweil is providing assistance to children under the age of five and pregnant and lactating women.

I spend the majority of my time in the capital city, Juba. Juba is a broken metropolis characterised by potholed roads, few services, tight security, and a fearful population. The Medair compound consists of our residence and offices and is under 24-hour guard. There are usually approximately 24 people living and working in the base and there are frequent team members travelling through Juba to and from leave. Two dozen national staff also work on the compound. Due to the security risks, Medair imposes a 7pm curfew on all staff staying on base. We cannot be out after 7pm or before 6:30am. We are not allowed to walk anywhere and are therefore reliant on Medair drivers. Electricity is provided by a generator which is switched off for three hour-long intervals each day. We are fortunate to have air conditioners in our rooms and offices which makes the intense heat tolerable. We have running water but it is exceptionally salty and only cold. I am accustomed to cold, salty showers. Lunch and dinner is provided each day except Sunday. The food primarily consists of rice, beans, and ugali. As a team, we make the most of our restricted life. We play games, watch movies, have “room parties”, and go out to eat on Sundays. Some play ultimate frisbee with other NGOs on Saturday mornings. Life is simple in Juba. Besides the security threats surrounding us, we work hard, make the most of our times off-base, and build relationships with each other. We have team devotions every week-day morning and often have prayer and worship evenings. Without our faith, life in South Sudan would be that much more difficult.

I feel deeply privileged to be working with Medair. Our work is truly saving lives. I also feel a huge responsibility to adequately tell the story of South Sudan, her people, the struggles, the hope, and the team members of Medair sacrificing so much to do this vital work.

I am excited for my second rotation which begins on Monday with a visit from a French documentary maker whom I will host for three weeks. I will again have the opportunity to visit several field locations. I value the relationships I have established so far and am expectant for what they promise to develop into. My time of rest in Kenya has been much needed and valuable. I plan to go back to South Africa in November after my second rotation.

Thank you for your prayers and support. I continue to feel God’s hand of guidance, protection, and providence over me and my work.

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Feet in Aweil

Feet are the main mode of transport in South Sudan. Taxis are scarce, personal vehicles rare, and motorbikes (boda bodas) costly. So, people walk. With or without shoes, they walk. The pathways are rough and the earth hard but the South Sudanese walk. If feet could talk, the stories they would tell, could fill hundreds of books. Each tells a tale; a tale of survival and struggle, a tale of toil and triumph, a tale of perseverance and power. These feet are tough! They do not give up. They are resilient and reliable; just like the people who own them. Dirty, cracked, and chipped, these feet carry on carrying on and keep South Sudan moving.

Renk

I stepped off the plane and scrunched my eyes to adjust to the glaring sun. The men on the plane had pushed themselves passed the women to disembark first and now stood waiting at the bottom of the stairs for their bags. The wind was hot. Even in this season, the cool season, the temperature is regularly in the mid-thirties. Partnered with the warm wind, it certainly felt like at least 35`C. Several 4×4 vehicles were randomly parked around the airstrip; a dusty and bumpy landing zone. We spotted the Medair truck and made our way over to it with our backpacks hanging off our shoulders. Aida, the programme support manager (PSM) from Uganda, was there to welcome us to Renk. This was my first field visit.

Renk Market

I travelled to Renk, a county in the far north of South Sudan near the border with Sudan, with communications officer Diana, and two videographers, Andres and Ninja. We are filming and conducting interviews to create several videos for Medair’s internal and external use. This was Diana’s last field trip and my first and it was a privilege and a relief to travel with her.

Renk is a broken town displaying signs of a once busy and bustling centre and an extroverted market. Between the war with Sudan and the civil war in South Sudan, Renk has been battered and hosts both South Sudanese internally displaced people (IDPs) and Sudanese refugees. There are few government services available, including health care, and many military checkpoints. The community is visibly poor and yet striving for peace and stability.

Medair provides health and nutrition, and water, sanitation, and hygiene (WASH) services to the people of Renk county. We operate several clinics and manage mobile nutrition and health teams around the area who visit the remote villages sprinkled around the Nile River. A Medair clinic, located in the Abayok IDP camp, serves thousands of people. Abayok clinic has a 24-hour stabilization centre for children and a 24-hour reproductive facility for women. Other services include treatment for malaria, cholera, diarrhea, wounds, and respiratory and skin infections. The nurses and medical assistants are from South Sudan and graciously care for their own people.

A nurse weighing a new admission to Abayok clinic | Medair doctor, Jimmy

The stabilization centre at Abayok clinic hosts 14 beds in three different areas. There is no electricity and no running water. You would be forgiven for not identifying it as a medical facility. The walls are constructed of mud and straw and the roof tin. The beds are surrounded by essential mosquito nets. The stabilization centre is designed for children and for the mothers who bring them and stay with them. The days are long and the silence only punctuated by the cries of hurting babies. In these difficult circumstances, the Medair team provides genuine compassion and vital care.

The children in the stabilization centre are there for a variety of sad and preventable reasons. Most have some form of malnutrition and then illnesses associated with the condition. The children are weighed daily and are required to gain an additional 20g per day for several days to be released. Some of the children were looking stronger and preparing for departure but others looked dreadfully unwell.

One little boy captured my attention. He was maybe 18 months old and had a severe skin infection. Much of his skin had naturally peeled from his little body revealing excruciatingly raw skin below. He lay naked next to his mother and slept most of the time. His breathing was heavy as if he was trying to control the pain. I stared at this child and internally wept for his suffering and felt the anger rise within me as I mulled over the fact that his illness was entirely caused by powerful men playing games with their people. The food insecurity in South Sudan is a result of the conflict and not the weather. The men managing the violence are to blame for the state of these children.

Next week I travel to Aweil where Medair is responding to a severe nutrition crisis. My heart is sore and my disdain for injustice acute but I will endevour to connect with the people and share their stories.